Denmark, Day 5: WWI, Beer, and Horses

Sunday, May 7th’s breakfast was found after a brisk walk in Vesterbro. Sunday seems to be a pretty chill day in Copenhagen, so there weren’t many places open for breakfast (as opposed to brunch, which tends to start between 10 and 11 AM). We needed to eat early because our plan was to head down the coast to Mosede to see a WWI-era fort/ museum. Lucky Mad & Kaffe (literally “Food & Coffee”) was open at 8:30. The place was already pretty full when we got there, but we did get a table. The restaurant is adorable, and is very popular with Anglo expats. We heard far more English than Danish there. Food was served on wooden planks in cute little bowls:

On our way to the train station we spotted the Danish version of the Little Free Library. This one had books on one side, clothes on another, and household items on the third side:


Unlike Roskilde, Mosede is an area that’s basically a bedroom suburb for Copenhagen. The next “real” market town is Koge, which we thought about visiting, but didn’t want to chance everything being closed on Sundays. Also unlike Roskilde, Mosede is actually on the ocean. It was a cold day with a little rain, so definitely not beach weather. Not that it stopped some folks… Lots of fisherman, lots of people out with their dogs. Ocean photo dump:


The fort itself had been somewhat restored, especially the lighting. All signage was in Danish, English, and German, which was awesome. I learned a lot — my knowledge of WWI in general is not very deep, but I didn’t know how severe the economic depression was in Europe before the war, and I didn’t realize how difficult it was for Denmark to maintain their neutrality. A very different experience from the US.

Each room in the fort had a different theme, ie Wartime Food, the effect of the draft, the daily life of a soldier, etc. Everything in the museum is meant to be interacted with, so you open drawers, listen to recordings on telephones, can put on costumes. It was not a busy day, so we had a lot of fun playing with everything.

Between the fort and the train station you walk through an apartment complex. They built a house for ducks in their runoff pond:


The train back into Copenhagen took us to Carlsberg Brewery. What luck! We didn’t take a lot of pictures here, because we know how beer is brewed and we’ve seen other breweries from this era. The most important photos are probably of the horses. Carlsberg maintains a traditional Danish horse breed, and keeps them as “ambassadors.” Long story short, I pet two horses. They were very good horses.


We then tipsily wandered around Vesterbro in search of dinner. We’d read raves about Neighborhood, a pizza place and cocktail bar. The pizza tasted good, but the crust was very flaky. Those air pockets crumbled as soon as you touched them, making for a very messy experience. My cocktail was amazing though. Rhubarb and grapefruit, yummmmm….

I read somewhere that the Danes spend more money on candles than any other nation, and I believe it. Every restaurant we went to, no matter how casual, no matter how early in the day, always had candles lit. It was incredibly charming.

Finally, since it was our anniversary, we thought we deserved dessert. We stopped at Kioskh, which has basically everything: beer, sweets, records, green plants, magazines…. It has an outdoor seating area, which is where we enjoyed our treat.


Stray observations and surprises:

  • Basically every restaurant has outdoor seating, and the Danes eat anything in any temperature outside. I’ve seen people eat ice cream while it’s almost freezing cold. It’s kind of amazing.
  • After how cute Roskilde was, Mosede was kind of a bummer. We were desperately trying to find somewhere to get a cup of coffee to warm up from the rain, but no dice. Good thing Copenhagen was so close.



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